The Rock
of Gibraltar
Monday, August 11, 2025
I woke up early, aboard the cruise ship in the Port of Gibraltar. At 7 am, ships time, it was still dark. While I watched the dock workers tie up the massive vessel I was also searching the horizon for a sight of my goal, the Rock of Gibraltar. By 9 am, Loaded with water bottles and hoping to beat the hot August heat to the top, I set off on foot walking through the streets toward the mountain.
I soon was walking through the Grand Casements Gates into the old city. I had thought it might be fun to ascend the Mediterranean Steps, so rather than go up I turned to the right and walked toward Europa Point.
A short stop near Trafalgar Cemetery and I pushed on. I must have made a wrong turn in my haste to gain elevation and soon found I would be unable to get to the Mediterranean Steps. As it turned out this was best because the Mediterranean side was foggy.
I eventually reached the gate and bought a ticket to enter the Gibraltar Nature Reserve. At this point the road is narrow and though I was being passed by many vans taking tourists up the mountain I soon caught up with them and passed most on foot due to the traffic jam they formed. It was here I started seeing the famous Barbary macaque, a unique Old World monkey. The species is endangered and tourists are warned not feed or touch them as they can be dangerous. Apparently no one was paying attention to this guidance and the monkeys were quite friendly and appeared to be no threat. Some even hopped on the vans for a ride up the road.
As I walked past the vans one of them trailed me up the road, following closely behind me. It was an experience you should have if you decide to tour Gibraltar.
I soon found the entrance to St Michael’s Cave and was pleased to be underground out of the sun in the coolness below. Viewed as the entrance to Hades by ancient Phoenicians and Greeks, the caves have since been used for military purposes. The Moors used them for military defense, while the British used them for hospitals and social events. Be sure to stop here as well, this another must see attraction.
On to the top I eventually was able to look over both sides and see the clouds on the Mediterranean side. A few minutes to cool down and I was on my way back down the mountain.
This time I went down toward the Great Siege Tunnels. I was hot, tired, my shirt was completely soaked with sweat. I was ready to be back on the ship. However, I decided, I may never be back here and went in. Imagine my surprise to see a Pub inside the entrance.
A couple of cold beers and I toured the tunnels walking all the way out to Jock’s Balcony which offered a view of the airport and the city below.
The history in these tunnels is palpable, the story it tells of war is sobering. This spot has historically controlled the Straight of Gibraltar and our current history has been shaped by the battles fought in this quintessential spot.
I someday hope I can go back and visit more of this area, if you have never been, I highly recommend visiting Gibraltar, you will be glad you did.
If you enjoy my real world travel stories you may also enjoy my fictional tale that I am now publishing on this Substack. Look for new chapters each week.